Tuesday, 18 March 2008

Friday 14th March

After a lie in I spent much of the day chilling in the sun as it's nice and hot but I still couldn't sunbathe as my legs and shoulders have to be covered. Escorted by our guards to a restaurant for a group meal, they were hitting the beggers that got in our way which was a little harsh but we were getting a lot of stares and the women were receiving few comments from men. Had a lift back in a police pick up truck. Had a few drinks back at the hotel sat outside in the courtyard as there was no bar but luckily they had offered to go out to buy drinks for us as although it is legal it's not easy to find.

Thursday 13th March

Drove to the Pakistan border which took about 2 hrs to get through and then we were joined by more armed guards for a 20 hour drive to Quetta through the desert and fairly close to the Afghanistan border. Joined by a new Pakistani guide called Bilal and a guide in training Amjan are both very friendly and knowledgeable about their country. Stopped for food at sunset in the desert which was quite beautiful. Passed many highly decorated trucks with bright colours and flashing lights. At times the road disappeared and we were left driving on a dirt track. Eventually arrived at the basic hotel at about 4am.

Wednesday 12th March

Joined by armed guards today as we are driving across the desert to Zahedan which is a town known for it's drug smuggling, we were told it was too dangerous for us to go out of the hotel so we had to stay inside. We got the staff to get ice cream for us as they hadn't any in. Watched a couple of films in the evening.

Tuesday 11th March

Visited some random gardens which were nice. Went to Bam where there was an earthquake about 4 years ago killing tens of thousands of people, there is still piles of rubble everywhere leaving the town looking like a construction site. Found a random log to have a picnic. Went to the citadel which was mainly destroyed in the earthquake. Stayed in hotel where we played a few games including charades, black magic and poker before heading to bed.

Monday 10th March

Visited a Zorastrian Fire Temple which houses a fire that has apparently been burning for 1500 years. Drove to Kerman where we were welcomed with some date biscuits which I bought a load more of as they're fantastic. Went to the bazaar where I bought a watch so I no longer have to rely on other people to know the time. Stocked up on food for the long drive day.

Sunday 9th March

Drove to Yazd where we stayed in a great little hotel with a courtyard and fountain surrounded by beds to chill on. Went for a wander in the bazaar before having a buffet dinner.

Saturday 8th March

Went to the bazaar and did a bit of shopping and chatted to a few locals who were all very friendly. Went to a cafe under the Siose-Pol Bridge, visited the Mary Church and then visited another cafe where I purchased some Iranian music that had been banned up until a year ago. A large group of us went on some pedal boats on the river which was good fun before heading to a restaurant for a group meal.

Friday 7th March

Fantastic breakfast as there was cereal which I've really been missing. Valy decided to take us to a graveyard on the day of mourning which I thought was quite disrespectful as there were loads of people visiting their friends/relatives graves. Next went to a shrine of an Imam where there were separate entrances for men and women and we all had to take our shoes off. Saw an archaeological site called Silak which is by the town of Kashan apparently where the 3 magi from the birth of Jesus are from. Stayed in a hotel in Esfahan and went for a wander buying ice cream.

Thursday 6th March

Visited the Soltanieh Dome which had great views of the snow covered mountains in the distance. Stopped for lunch at a place where we sat in the traditional position of cross legged on a raised platform. Stayed in a nice hotel in Tehran which is a really modern city compared to the rest of Iran. There was a nice little cafe where the manager allowed me to take off my headscarf, and then a couple of us managed to get hold of some beer which we had to drink secretly in a hotel room. Was good fun and tasted even better knowing that it is illegal!

Wednesday 5th March

Valy took us to visit the Blue Mosque. Then stayed in a hotel in Soltenayeh which wasn't in the town so had chicken and rice there which seems to be all you can buy in Iran. We started playing spoons in the lobby but the staff told us that as it involves cards in could be mistaken for gambling by the police so we had to move to a hotel room.

Tueday 4th March

Took about 5 hours to cross the Turkish Iranian border. All the girls had to put on the headscarves and berkhas, we stood out we all had bought bright colours whilst the locals were wearing black so we got a lot of stares. We got an Iranian guide called Valy who stays with us throughout the country. Stayed in a hotel in Tabriz, we were told that we should only go out in groups and we needed a guy with us but a group of us still got stalked by a random man for about 15 mins but apart from brushing against one girls bum he didn't really do any harm. Found all the clothes to be quite hot which got annoying especially as I could only take it all off in my hotel room.

Monday 3rd March

Slept on the back seat of the bus as I was feeling a little rough until we were stopped at a military roadblock to show our passports. Stayed in a place called Dogubayazit which I didn't think was a particularly nice place, there were loads of soldiers around and it looked like quite a poor area. Spent the last of my Turkish lira on a huge tub of chocolate spread!

Sunday 2nd March

Drove to Erzerum which was also cold and icy. Popped out for pizza in the evening before heading to a hotel room for a bit of a party as it was our last chance for a drink before heading to Iran (thought we shouldn't the night before as being hungover at the Iranian border would not be fun!) where alcohol is illegal.

Saturday 1st March

Drove to Sivas which was cold and icy. We braved going outside in the afternoon for lunch but by evening it was foggy as well so we got the hotel to get a take away and wine for us.

Friday 29th Feb

Major lie in then went shopping for a berkha to wear in Iran, I found a nice orange one with black embroidery. Went back to Fat Boys for a meal before playing a bit of pool at the hostel.